After nearly 24 hours of travel from New York, through Buenos Aires, through Bariloche, we finally touched down in El Calafate and made our way to Eolo along the turquoise blue shores of Largo Argintino. Eolo is located on 40,000 acres of untouched world. Those acres are surrounded by 800,000 acres that some other guy owns; he hasn’t gotten a chance to do anything to his land and is cool with guest walking around. The last thing to scar this landscape was the Glacier you can see retreating up the valley and human beings haven’t yet gotten their chance to ‘muck it up’. Lets hope never do.
Upon arrival we asked if there was a place to hike. The receptionist, Vanessa, pointed us to the large barn doors that lead out of the central court yard and said ‘Its all there to hike’. We changed and headed out and up.
I picked up Bruce Chatwins 1975 classic, ‘In Patagonia’. He did it right, so we did the same. In his own words:
“I climbed a path and from the top looked up-stream towards Chile. I could see the river, glinting and sliding through the bone-white cliffs with strips of emerald cultivation either side. Away from the cliffs was the desert. There was no sound but the wind, whirring through thorns and whistling through dead grass, and no other sign of life but a hawk, and a black beetle easing over white stones.”
― Bruce Chatwin, In Patagonia
Our first hike: